To begin, you should probably understand that I'm not strongly opinionated in nature. Most days "yes, but no" could apply to my mindset. That being said, while I appreciate and support those against animal cruelty, I wouldn't be the girl hand painting a sign about it in protest. While it's been outlawed many other places, the corrida is something still present and very important to Spanish cultura. This is the initial reason I even considered attending. Certainly not because I enjoy gore or disrespect animal rights.
I won't lie, I wasn't stoked about immersing myself within this cultural experience. But I did, and part of me is glad. No regrets. Not every experience is 100% enjoyable or supportable but, clamping down on Spanish culture, you win some, and then you lose some.
About 10 of us boarded a bus to Ávila, which is in our region of Spain so not too far from Salamanca, and headed out with complimentary straw hats and an air of curiosity as to what exactly we had gotten ourselves into. We made a quick stop at a scenic overlook to check out the actual city of Ávila, and of course a photo shoot resulted.
I made three new friends, who were riding the bus with us from Salamanca, one guy from Austria, one guy from Poland, and another from Colorado. Always exciting to get to know more well-traveled folks. Thanks, Chris, for the photos!
We traveled onward to a small town right outside of Ávila to the Plaza where the corrida would take place. It poured as soon as we got there, which is so strange for a Spanish summer, but luckily we had our new hats to protect us. Sitting down on the wet bleachers in the open stadium was a different story, though. The arena was almost full with locals and a small band, and the matadors were fluffing up their pretty costumes right underneath us.
The air of a fully developed art form was probably what I got the most out of this experience. Basically the process is highly ritualized. "In the traditional corrida, three matadores each fight two bulls, each of which is between four and six years old and weighs no less than 460 kg. Each matador has six assistants—two picadores ("lancers on horseback") mounted on horseback, three banderilleros – who along with the matadors are collectively known as toreros ("bullfighters") – and a mozo de espadas ("sword page"). Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla ("entourage"). (thanks Internet)
What is so shocking is how graceful and ballet-like the fighting is. Yes, there's a huge, strong bull charging at them, but the toreros keep complete composure. The first four bulls' deaths were "normal," without much struggle, but the last two were very hard to watch. One of the matadores got his pants ripped by his bull, and we learned that they don't wear much as undergarments. Basically his booty was hanging out for the last half of his fight. He didn't seem to mind, in fact he might have even gained some confidence from the situation. He won the bull's tail as an award for his bravery.
And, I mean, the matadores ain't too hard on the eyes. Especially this hombre guapo, Juan Bautista, from France:
Essentially the Ryan Gosling of matadores. These guys are celebrities. Their people were handing out portrait posters after the fight.
All in all, I just don't think the corrida is worth anything. It was pretty expensive to attend and just seems like a waste--of perfectly healthy, huge bulls, of money, and of effort. I know that many more animals are killed in far worse ways for our food consumption all the time, but the thing is that we don't pay to sit there and watch it their struggle. I don't really think it's cowardly, because the look of bravery in these guys' eyes was outstanding at times, but it's just not something I would do again.
In other noticias (news), I should share the miracle with you all that I'm actually not sweating right now, and haven't really at all much this week. The weather has taken a drastic turn for the better, or I've just really gotten used to it. This morning was even a little chilly! Classes are far more bearable, aside from hangovers/tiredness, of course. I took a "midterm" yesterday which went well, which was kind of surprising considering the sheer amount of times I've been humbled lately by answering questions wrongly in class. But it's absolutely crazy to think that this time next week we'll be done with FINALS. Slow down, España!
Home life is still chill, we've experienced some pretty awkward elevator rides in our building recently which are always funny. Spanish elevator etiquette is tan diferente considering their elevators (ascendores) are about 1/3 the size of a typical one we're used to and go about three times that slow as well.
We're just enjoying ourselves and trying to disfrutar con (have fun with) every last minute we have here. A phrase my profesora used the other day was that everything good in España is "inmoral, illegal, o engorda." (immoral, illegal, or makes you fat). Taking that to heart as we go out on the town almost every night and also this morning as I enjoyed probably the BEST croissant from a "Parisian croissanteria" on the way to class for breakfast. Dios mío.
Tonight is the last night our Brazilian friends will be in town, because they only had a three week program. All I can say is that I will miss them mucho mucho.
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Besas, XOXO
Lindsay
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